Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.
The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.
“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.
Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.
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